Geyerhof doesn’t just make superb white wine from Austrian Kremstal; their rosé on zweigelt is a terrific cold-climate wine that, with its vibrant acidity and great precision in the fruit, offers a good, refreshing and interesting drinking experience: perfect for the group of wine drinkers who have gone a little dead in ‘pleasure wine’. It is something as rare as rosé with a little ‘depth’ in the aroma image without giving up on the more informal thirst-quenching function, which rosé should also have.
Geyerhof Stockwerk Zweigelt Rosé tastes just lovely via its honest, life-affirming appearance with great juiciness. It is a wine with an edge, but without its biodynamic origins it gives off aromatic dissonance: Here, vinification is done with competence, so that fruit and precision are preserved in a wine that is squeaky clean and not complicated to enjoy.
Bio-Weingut Geyerhof is a small family-run winery that has been the standard-bearer for organic viticulture in Austria for almost 40 years, and they are now also biodynamically certified by Demeter. The family makes wine exclusively from their own fields, located in the immediate vicinity of the property in Oberfucha, bordering the Wachau. There is no rosé appellation in Kremstal DAC, so the wine is bottled under the wider Niederösterreich regional designation, but nevertheless the grapes are very local. Their zweigelt stands on nutrient-poor soil, dominated by sand and clay.
And ‘cold climate wine’ is not an empty platitude: the grapes are only harvested in mid-October with a lovely, natural acidity level. Maceration and fermentation took place with natural yeast, and everything took place in steel tanks in Geyerhof’s cool, 800-year-old cellar, where the wine rested on the yeast for four months.
Stockwerk is a dry, juicy wine with a high charm factor despite its slender profile. It is aromatic without being overbearing and has a pleasant fullness. The grape aromas move around the red fruit spectrum with a small edge of something herbal that invites contemplation, if you like. You can also just drink it in large sips, because this is an honest, good wine with a moderate 12% alcohol.
Enjoy the wine chilled, at 7-12°, where it will work well without food, but this is also a versatile lunch wine for sausages, pâté, a Mediterranean-inspired fish soup and a myriad of other options. The wine is equipped with a picnic-friendly screw cap.
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