At Bernard Burgaud, there’s no fuss: they make one (outstanding) cuvée, exclusively from Syrah, with a moderate alcohol content of 13% in the 2022 vintage.
Since the 2019 vintage, his son Pierre has officially taken over the reins, though his father is always nearby…
This wine stands out by NOT being an overly pumped-up Syrah. It has plenty of intensity and depth but shines with its juicy, elegant fruit, crafted in a style that keeps you wanting the next glass. Unfortunately, this style is nearly extinct in a region where “turbo wines” dominate, which is a shame, as Côte Rôtie has the potential for remarkably elegant and floral wines.
The family owns a modest 4 hectares of vineyards spread across the lieu-dits Le Champin, Leyat, Moutonnes, Fongeant, La Brosse, and Côte Blonde, with 2/3 on steep terraces where all vineyard work is done by hand. The average age of the vines is high, with the oldest over 80 years old.
Vinification includes destemming of the grapes and temperature-controlled spontaneous fermentation. Aging takes place in 228-liter Allier oak barrels (from Tonnellerie Sirugue in Nuits St-Georges), with a modest 20% new barrels and the rest 1–5 years old. After about a year of aging with 3–4 rackings, the wine is ready for bottling, done without fining and only with light filtration.
This is a personal wine made in very limited quantities, and in this vintage, it carries a delightful flavor of ripe blackberries with a touch of raspberries, black olives, some dried flowers, and carne cruda. Despite being 100% Syrah, the wine is full of charm without any dark undertones. The taste is intense and moderately full-bodied but above all, showcases well-defined fruit and precise acidity.
Try Burgaud Côte Rôtie with boeuf bourguignon, where everything comes together beautifully (as Bourgogne wines in a reasonable price range are usually too light). Game with rich sauces is another wonderful match. Serve the wine in large glasses at around 17°C, raising the temperature by a degree or two with age. And remember to give it time in the glass; patience is rewarded with increased complexity.
From experience, this is an extremely long-lived wine, enjoyable for at least 20 years from vintage.
